Longer loop braids, and starts with no ends

I just got another question about making smooth loop-starts, by which I mean braids that start with a looped opening on top, and no fringe—no visible ends of thread  at the top of the braid. I’ve pasted in and expanded my reply as the second half of this overly-long post. [10/21/'11—I just added a video demo'ing one way to make a loop start with no loose ends]

The first half of this post started out as a reply to another reader’s comment on ways to braid longer loop braids. (At some point I’ll probably cleave this post into two–once I get more photos and or videos made for them.)

3 fingerloop braids by loopbraider

Center braid is 7+ yards long, but I call it my “whole-nine-yards” braid, since that’s how long the loops started out.

So, for strategies for longer loop braids, keep reading; for loop-starts without ends, skip down to the second half of this post…

LONGER loop braids:
The longest loop braid I ever made is the center braid in the photo above, also shown at the far right in my header pic. It’s over 21 feet long. It’s a 7-loop square braid of embroidery floss, that started out with a 9-yard-long warp (27 feet, or just over 8 meters). The finished braid is about 7 yards and one foot (6.5m)—didn’t have much take-up. With such fine thread it took me most of a day to braid the first half. That was after spending hours on setting up—this was my first experiment with ultra-long warps and I had no idea how to manage them. It was a ridiculous scene, with loops spread and tangled all through the living room and into the kitchen.  (Don’t do it that way!)

For this braid, I used both methods I describe below. I use these methods all the time, but not usually on such mega-long braids—that was a test braid, just to see if it could be done. I love that hank of braid though, it’s very fun to play with—coil up various ways, tie knots in, etc.

My two main strategies for braiding longer loop-braids:

step 1. The center-start  (sorry, no photo) This is the first strategy because it is the quickest and easiest—always start with this one and only add the second one if this alone will not be enough.

I begin braiding at the center-point of an extra-long loop bundle, braid to one end, tie off, then start from the center again and braid the other half.

I start by tying each loop separately. (Not tied together.)  Each loop is as long as I want the finished braid to be, plus extra length for take-up, and extra for the bit at the ends that can’t be braided.  I align the loops side by side, and then make a big fat slip-knot of all the loops together, at the approximate center of this loop-bundle, not at the end.

Then I take a piece of string and fasten it just below the center-knot, exactly the way I show in my Start Here 5-loop braid photos. I hang or tie that header string onto a fixed point and start braiding the first half of the braid. (Unless that half is itself too long to braid with, in which case I move on to step 2, see below the first set of photos). 

After braiding to the end of the first half, I remove the header string, and pull out the big slip knot at the center of the braid. Then I use the finished half of the braid to tie onto my fixed point, and begin braiding the second half—outward from the center point again (which now has no knot).

A fun variation of the center-start is what I call the “handshake start(photos below).  This is a good one if you want half the braid to be in different colors than the other half (though they don’t have to be in different colors). You prepare one set of loops for half the length of the braid, each loop tied separately. The knots are at the bottom of the loops, where you will be inserting your fingers.

Then one-at-at-a-time you thread a strand for the other half of the braid through that first set of loops, and tie each strand into a loop that is linked onto the first bunch of loops. 

[I just added these photos—these loops wouldn't make a particularly long braid, but they illustrate the basic idea.]

I actually rarely use a header cord for this (the red string in the photo below)–I tend to use one of the two bunches of loops as the header, and just tie it into a knot and hang it over the bar of my C-clamp.

Either way works–you braid outward on the first set of loops, all the way to the end, then braid outward from the middle on the second set of loops. There will be a tight “handshake” join at the centerpoint of the braid. (I don’t recommend braiding over the top of a table—I just did that here to display the loops more clearly.)

step 2. Shorten the loops.
If, after tying the central slip knot in the loop bundle, each half of the loop-bundle is still too long, I shorten each loop by tying a temporary slip-knot (like the first stitch of a crochet chain) partway down each loop at a good length for braiding.

Note: There are two directions the slip-knot can be tied in—be sure to tie it so the knot will only come undone when you pull on the extra loop-length below the knot, and not when you put your finger into the shortened loop and pull!

The knot must be tied at the same point in each loop, so the shortened loops will all be the same length. I don’t measure and mark the loops, I just do this by comparison with the previous loop.

Then, to shorten the extra length below the slip knot, I make a series of slip-knots onto that first one, using up the excess loop length—this is essentially a crochet chain. It is quickest to do by using a crochet hook, inserting it into the loop of the first slip-knot, tightening that knot up a bit around the hook, and then crocheting a “chain” with the rest of the loop-length (held as one strand).

This can also be done with one’s fingers if you don’t have a crochet hook. If you don’t know how to crochet a crochet chain, or make a chain of slip knots, google a how-to video—it is very easy to learn. After chaining up the excess length, pull the “tail” through the last slip knot so the chain won’t come undone.

This makes a caterpillar-like, dangly object out of the excess loop-length, and reduces it to a mere 1/4 of its original length.

If that’s not going to be short enough you can fold the excess loop length one or more times before crocheting it up, which is what I had done (several times) to make the giant “caterpillars” in the photo below for my Whole-Nine-Yards braid.

These are enormous “caterpillars”—I had folded the excess lengths in half several times before crochet-chaining them up. This was the start of braiding my “whole-9-yards” warp. Blue loop on right d-finger has just been taken from the left index finger—its “caterpillar” is trailing after it, through the left hand’s loops.

Then simply braid with the knotted-up ends hanging down from the ends of the loops. They pull through the other loops as you braid. The limiting factor is the thickness of the yarn. The dangling “caterpillars” of knotted loop-ends probably can’t be thicker than your fingers, or they wouldn’t easily pull through loops as you braid. And they probably shouldn’t be much more than 6″ or so in length. Shorter is better, because you’ll be able to braid further before the dangly caterpillars are longer than the loops (see below).

Here I have braided down to the end of my first set of knotted up ends. The last loop through is on the left d-finger and its “caterpillar” is barely making it through the other hand’s loop ends, because they are now so short. I will now put the loops down on a holder, pull out the slip knots and refold/ re-knot-up for my second leg of braiding.

It works best with V-fell braiding because the active hand pulls the index loop of the opposite hand through that opposite hand’s loops, all the way across to the active hand—so it’s simple for the dangling “caterpillar” at the bottom of the loop to clear through the other loops. With A-fell it feels more awkward at first. Because the active finger is pulling a loop through the other loops of its own hand, the knotted up “tail” or “caterpillar” ends up lying inside those loops, rather than clearing through them. I eventually realized that it was just fine to leave the caterpillar lying there inside the loops it was just pulled through, but it bothered me at first—I wanted it to come all the way through, the way it does with V-fell braiding.

My old clothespin holder. Not as easy as pegs, but worked fine. (Click on any photos for more detail.)

Half-done. Unbraided half is hanging down in back (I had loosely chained up the 13′ of embroidery floss loops so they wouldn’t get tangled)

The method is a little inefficient with mega-long braids, because you will have to undo and then redo the caterpillars a few times before finally braiding down to the real ends of the loops. It is very effective and worthwhile for getting just that extra length that you want for a specific braid, especially if it only involves making one set of knotted-up loop-ends.

Hint: Depending on how much extra length you need, instead of making caterpillars on both ends of the braid, you can also choose to locate the “center” start slip-knot at, say ¼ of the way into the loop-bundle. Then you might only need to tie up the loops on the long half into caterpillars. Just make sure that the loops on the short half are short enough that you can comfortably stretch them all the way apart when tightening them.

1st half is done, 2nd half has been started, braided down to end of one set of knotted-up loops.

finger loop braiding, extra long lengths, 22-foot braid

Nearing the end of last knotted-up section, only a little bit remaining to braid after this section (pink floss lengths were longer than others for some reason). These are regular sized embroidery floss caterpillars, not folded before crochet-chaining.

Half-done—best closeup shot of braid

These are old photos that were buried in my computer files from when I made this braid in 2007, not the clearest, but I hope they can help make some sense out of my descriptions…

[just added these photos] I just found these pictures of a warped-up and in-progress braid I made a few years ago—Joe’s fiddle braid (you can see him using it on my “About Loop Braiding” page):

18 loops, approx 10′ long, (16 bicolor, 2 solid yellow), heavy cotton thread. Each loop is mounted over matching teeth on 2 combs, with no twist along the loop. NOTE: making caterpillars on both ends was a mistake!!! (see below) Finished braid sample to right. (Flat double braid of 18 loops)

The braid was planned to be a little over 5 feet long; it needed a 10 foot warp plus extra to allow both for take-up and for a little extra just in case.  (Wider braids have much more take-up than narrower ones.)  My sample of how the braid will look is to the right—visible if you click twice  on the photo—and my notes for the braid are above it.  I haven’t yet tied the big slip-knot in the middle of the warp that I will braid from.

I tried to be very organized with this braid, and started out by crocheting up both ends of the braid into caterpillars, as shown above, instead of waiting until the first half of the braid was done before crocheting up the second half.  It looks good in the photo, but it turned out to be a big mistake….When I picked up the loops on the other side to braid the second half of the braid, the loops were no longer all the same length! I guess when I started braiding the first half, some of the loops got stretched more than the others, shortening that loop on the other half of the braid. I had to re-do several caterpillars on the second half of the braid to equalize the lengths of the loops. So now I just set my loops up on two combs, tie the center-start slip-knot, and make caterpillars on my working half. I wait until the first half is done before I make caterpillars on the other ends of the loops.

These days I always mount my loops onto two combs if I’m setting up for a long, center-start braid. That way the loops on the other end of the braid will be in [reverse!] order when I pick them off their comb to braid the second half of the braid.  This is not necessary—I braided center-start braids for ages without doing this. After finishing the first half, I would just pick up the other side, separate the loops into the two left and right bunches, and start braiding. (It’s usually easy enough to separate them correctly into the left and right bunches of loops.) There would be a small, symmetrical “god’s-eye”-like circular area between the two halves of the braid, nothing very glaring. You may find this preferable to dealing with a “perfectly” set-up loop arrangement for the 2nd half!

Here’s the problem with the so-called “perfect” loop set-up on the two combs:
If you braided with V-fell braiding moves on the first half of the braid, then the loops coming out at the mid-point of the braid—where you started—will be coming out of the fell in A-fell configuration. The braid is essentially turned upside-down at this point, which is the only physical difference between A-fell and V-fell braids. In fact, for braids of 7 loops or fewer, you could now switch to braiding with A-fell moves, and have a completely seamless join between the two halves of the braid.

And conversely, if you now continue braiding with V-fell moves on this perfectly set up and reversed  2nd half of the braid, you will start to undo what you just braided!  Remember, the two methods unbraid each other.  (This can be helpful! I’ve even unbraided at this point on purpose, if the beginning of the braid had a mistake or if I wanted the midpoint to be at a different point in the pattern repeat.) 

Turning the braid over—making the upper surface the lower surface for the second half—may solve this(?). That would be the equivalent of making any turns in the loop transfers in the opposite rotational direction than you did on the first half of the braid. I haven’t tried this, but it seems likely. Another solution may be to turn some or all of the loops over once on your fingers before starting on the second half. Assuming this works in preventing the braid from undoing, both solutions would likely result in some kind of discontinuity between the 2 halves of the braid–that symmetrical “blip” I mentioned earlier.

My preferred solution:
To continue the 2nd half of the braid with V-fell braiding, and with an almost-seamless midpoint,  I first undo the loops from their A-fell order. (see note**)

Do this by working on one hand’s loops at a time, keeping the left hand’s loops on the left hand, right hand’s loops on the right hand, and undoing the loops into an order that is more V-fell-like. (see note**) You simply pull them through each other, in sequence, but leaving them on the same hand.

When you are done, on one hand at a time check along the loops from fingers up to the fell of the braid to make sure that no loop is passing through any other loop of the same hand. They should also now be in the opposite order on the fingers than they were before. (This is good! A-fell and V-fell braids have the opposite loop-orders.)

Now, when you start braiding with V-fell moves, the braid won’t undo. And amazingly, there will be almost no visible irregularity at the junction between the two halves of the braid, even though the angles of the threads will reverse themselves at that point. There will be a symmetrical float of two threads—see photo below. I suspect these centerpoint  floats would have been less glaring if I had made the turnaround point in a white/orange area instead of at the one all-black loop. But there won’t be a bump or round god’s-eye-like section at the join.

The center-start of this 7-loop braid shows as a wider v-shaped black float, upper left in photo. On either side of this center-point, slants of the pattern are reversed.

Braiding the first “leg” of the 2nd half of the braid. This is an 18-loop “double braid”, flat version.*

Here I have just started the second half of Joe’s braid—you can see the finished first half hanging down on the left and heading towards my lap. The bits of colored string hanging from the loops are color codes I attached to the ends of the loops. I tied a piece of embroidery floss onto the end of each loop—in color-wheel order (red, burgundy, purple, blue etc)—to help me keep track of their correct order on my fingers.  I rarely do this, but would again with a long complex braid, especially if most of the loops were the same color (makes it harder to notice that they are out of order when you make a mistake).

*Double braids have eight ridges (the lengthwise, stacked columns of diagonal strands), compared to the four ridges of a square braid. Even though it has 18 loops, Joe’s braid is structurally not much different from a 10-loop flat double braid. In the 10-loop version these ridges are twill passages of “over 2 strands” (for the most part). The 18-loop version has the same eight ridges, just wider—each thread passing over a span of 4 threads.



Fringeless looped starts
(no tassel or loose threads at the start of the braid):

I almost always start braids with a loop—probably a confusing term since I don’t mean the loops you are braiding with, but rather a buttonhole-type loop at the top of the braid—see the photo below, and the braid (above) in the right sidebar→.  There are a few different ways to do this.

The simplest way to begin your braid with a loop/ buttonhole leaves a tassel of ends at the start of the braid. You just start your braid as I show in my 5-loop tutorial, but with a divided section at the very beginning (all loop transferred without turning them).

I often make this same type of divided-braid loop start, but without leaving any loose ends. My usual way is really hard to explain, so I’ll leave it for last, and start by describing 2 other “tassel-less” loop starts that are much easier to describe. They both have a nice look that really shows off the loop:

1. Handshake Loop-Start: I used this start on my Sudarium braids:

fingerloop braiding, 16 loops, 'handshake' looped start

‘Handshake’ loop-start, 16-loop Sudarium braid. 8 pink / purple loops were linked around 8 silver / gold loops at the start of the braid. Click twice to see the ‘handshake’ join of the two color-groups.

Here are some photos I took for the Braids and Bands spiral braid tutorial that demo this “handshake start”:

I start by tying half my loops—tying them all separately. So for a 6 or 7-loop braid, I would start by making 3 separate loops, each tied with an overhand knot at the the bottom of the loop (where fingers will be inserted).

Then I take the strands for the other 3 (or 4) loops, thread them through the first bunch of tied loops, and tie each of them at the bottom.

Now there is one group of 3 loops linked onto another group of 3 (or 4) loops. Optionally, I can thread a fine, strong header cord through both sets of loops.

Or I can just use one of the 2 sets of loops as the header “cord” for the other set.

I start braiding on only one of these 2 bunches of loops (holding the knotted ends of the loops).

I braid only a short distance.

Then I put those loops down on a holder, or for only 3 loops I might
just drop them and not bother with a holder.

Then I start in the other direction with the second bunch of loops, and braid a short distance.

At this point, I pick up all the loops, and start my main braid. That joins up the 2 ends of the short, braided section, which forms a loop/ buttonhole at the top of my (now unified) thicker braid.

I call this a “handshake loop-start.”

finger loop braiding, spiral braid, looped start

At this point or sooner I pull the header cord out of the join and hang the loop itself over the bar of my C-clamp—the loop in the braid acts as the header cord.

The spiral braid in the photo above is a 6-loop braid, so the two halves of the handshake loop are equal in thickness. That wouldn’t be the case for an odd-number-of-loops braid. Half the loop would be a little thicker than the other half.

A handshake start using bicolor loops has to be done differently.   When making the bicolor loops, make HALF as many loops as you need, but make each loop twice as long as your desired loop-length. (In the braid, each loop will be bent in half to form two bicolor loops.) Then double the left loops over—bend them in half—and suspend them through/ around the bent-in-half right loops, so that each set is linked around the other.  Each doubly-long loop will end up forming two bicolor loops, held by different fingers of the same hand. (You can do this with single-color loops, too.)  This only works for an even number of  loops. For an odd number of bicolor loops, you’ll have to tie a knot at both ends of the one odd bicolor loop (regular length, not doubly-long) and live with  two ends sticking out of the handshake area. (Cut those two ends extra long, and you can hide them later by using a needle to bury them into the braid). However, if your one “odd” loop is a single-color loop, you won’t need to leave any ends at the start of the braid—just thread your single strand around the other set of bent-in-half loops, and tie it into one single-color loop, (regular length) as in the photos above.

The Handshake looped start is really just a variation of the more basic Center-start looped start below. In some ways the Handshake version is easier because it automatically and accurately locates the center-point that you start out braiding from.

2. TheCenter-start  Looped  Start” (pic):
Start with half as many loops as your braid needs, but make them twice as long as you would normally make them.
So, 3 doubly long loops for a 6 or 7-loop braid. Find the center of this long bundle and braid ONLY the center one or two inches of the bundle–this will be a narrow 3-loop braid at the mid-point of your loops. Then bend that short braided section in half, tie a header cord around its mid-point and fasten that to a fixed point,  join all 6 loop ends together (you can thread a 7th single loop into the join area at this point if you will be braiding a 7-loop braid) and braid with all the loops. Your 3-loop braided section will form a loop at the top of the braid. At this point, you may have to retie the ends of your loops on one side of the braid to make them the same length as the loops on the other half.

3. Divided Braid loop start, method A: I know of 2 different divided loop starts. I’ll start with the easiest-to-explain way and show a video for it:

For a 3-loop braid:   Tie two of your three length into loops.  Before tying the last length into a loop, pass one of its ends through both the other loops, and  then tie its two ends together into a loop.

For a braid with more loops than three:   Tie the loops that will be mounted on the left hand, tying each one separately. Then, one-at-a-time, thread each of the strands for the right hand’s loops through all the left hand loops and tie it into a loop that is linked around the first group of loops. You now have two bunches of loops that are linked together like two links in a chain. So far, this is like the set-up for the Handshake start. The following steps are completely different, though:

Holding the left and right bunches of loops separately, suspend all the loops over a sturdy prong (like the horizontal part of the handle/ screw on a C-clamp). They should be hanging together in one bunch over the prong, but do keep the left and right bunches of loops separate at the ends of the loops. The knotted ends should be at the bottom, where you will be inserting your fingers.

(A header cord can be used instead of a prong—as shown in the video above. What I have recently found to be really handy, instead of a header cord, is a simple metal or plastic shower curtain ring. Has all the advantages of both the sturdy prong and the header-cord—you can see easily whether the loops are suspended correctly, and the loops are nice and secure—cant slide off. I hook the shower-curtain ring onto my C-clamp.)

Put the left loops onto your left fingers:
Insert your left fingers into the knotted ends of the loops, making sure that none of the loops is twisted at all between your finger and the prong the loops are suspended on. For each loop, the upper shank on your finger should go to the top of the prong, and the lower shank to the underside of the prong with no twist along the loop.

Repeat with the right loops, placing them on the fingers of the right hand.

Each loop should be mounted in an open circular path around your finger and the bar or header cord, not be twisted into a figure-8. (demo’d in the video above, and shown in photos in my 3-loop braid tutorial—downloadable in pdf format)

Begin braiding a divided braid—all transfers straight (unreversed/ open/ unturned). Tighten hard for the first few times, to avoid  looseness at the top of the braid.

When the divided portion is long enough, start making the appropriate turned (crossed/ reversed) transfers for whatever braid you have planned, which will join up the divided loop portion.  One cohesive braid will start to form, with a loop or eyelet at the top where you began braiding.

You might expect this start to have a “handshake” type of join, since it got set up the same way as a handshake-start braid, but it really doesn’t—if you check at the top of the loop/buttonhole-start, the loops are not linked around each other as in a handshake join.  There’ll be an area at the very top with a slight twist to it almost like part of a spiral braid, and then the upper shanks of all the loops will head one way—forming one side of the loop/ buttonhole—while the lower shanks of all the loops head the other way, forming the other half of the buttonhole… The buttonhole/ loop itself  is a divided braid–two flat braids braided simultaneously, one on top of the other.

Bicolor loops require a slightly different treatment. Just as the “handshake” loop start can be made with bicolor loops, so can the divided version above. When you set up your loops, cut out doubly-long bicolor loops, and only make half as many loops as your braid requires. Link the left hand’s loops (as a bunch) around the right hand’s loops. Then follow the same instructions as above. You will have to take care in mounting the bunch of loops onto the prong or header cord or shower-curtain ring. Make sure that all the upper shanks on each finger go over the same side of the prong, and all the lower shanks on the fingers go under the other side of the prong.

In the previous version, a left set of doubly-long loops is linked around a right set of doubly-long loops. In my favorite divided-braid loop start below, each doubly-long loop is twisted so that it forms its own link.]

My usual divided-braid start is the following one, no. 4—it works with both single-color and bicolor loops.

4. Divided loop start, method B:

This is how I start most of my braids. It makes a flatter start, and can be used with bicolor and/or single-color loops. It’s a lot easier to do than it is to describe…It’s hard to photograph. I tried to video it, but the important parts didn’t show up well at all, so I’m giving up for now and just leaving this wordy explanation, plus a new diagram from a student:

finger loop braiding, 17th C. letterbraid, solo braider

this loop start is just a “divided” braid, can be made on any braid that can be made “divided” (see 5 and 9-loop braid tutorials)

Even though this start is a little fussy, it’s much quicker to set up than the other methods, at least after you are used to it. It can be done with simple 3-loop braids up to very complex ones like this letterbraid.

[I recently slightly changed how I do this, and have altered the description below so it describes my new-and-improved method...]

The first step is to make up your loops: doubly long loops as described above. Each loop will be bent in half to form two loops for braiding with.

But instead of just bending the loop in half, you must also make a link at the half-way point in each loop. There are many ways to do this! One way is to hold both ends of the loop, twist it once so it forms a figure-8, and then keep twisting it one more time, which will form a link in the middle of the figure-8. (Each circle of the figure-8 will be one loop in the braid.) Then you fold the loop in half at the link, forming two loops out of one.

Now insert the bar of your C (G)-clamp through BOTH of these loops. You don’t hang the doubled loop over a prong, instead you are sticking the prong through both of the two new loops. Their upper shanks should both be coming down over the top of the prong, and their lower shanks should both be on the other side the prong. The link connecting the two loops should be at the top of the prong, and should be a link, not a simple cross of one strand over another. If you started with one double-length bicolor loop, the two upper shanks now coming over the top of the prong should both be the same color, and both shanks on the other side of the prong should be of the other color.

In fact it’s easiest to learn this twist-link with bicolor loops.

The way I usually form the twist-link is by suspending a doubly-long loop over a prong*. I hold both ends of the loop taut, and give one side a full twist in a certain direction. The next part is what is hard to explain or show in a video, but easy to do: I insert a finger under only the two upper shanks of the two connected loops, and slide that finger up near the prong (where I can see that the “upper” and “lower” shanks on my finger are not the same as the threads that are “upper” and “lower” on the prong). Then I lift the two (connected) loops temporarily off the prong (with my finger serving as a prong), and immediately replace the doubled loop/ loops back onto the prong. However, now the upper and lower shanks over the prong are the shanks that were upper and lower on my finger–the true upper and lower shanks of the two loops, with the link connecting them on top of the prong.

If your braid needs an odd number of loops, a single loop can be hung over the prong. If this is a bicolor loop, you will have two ends at the top of the braid—make them long and you can hide them later by “sewing” them deeply into the braid. After you start braiding, the single loop will eventually get firmly hooked in to the other interlaced doubly-long loops. However, all the loops cannot be single loops! At least one double-length loop must be used, or all the single loops would continually pull through each other when you tried to braid.

Always start braiding with DIVIDED braiding moves–don’t turn any of your first loop transfers or you may undo one of the links in your doubled loops. It is quite possible to start without an actual loop at the top of the braid though, if you want what I call a ‘stub start.’

If I don’t want to have a loop at the top of my braid, I suspend the loops from a fine header-cord thread instead of a prong, and switch to braiding a ‘solid’ braid after a just a few cycles of divided braiding. This results in no (visible) loop at the top of the braid. It’s trickier than starting with a loop, because there tend to be a few loose, baggy threads at the top after you remove the header cord.

The first braiding moves are a bit fussy, as the doubled loops tend to slip and get unevenly longer and shorter if you aren’t careful. But after a few cycles, the loops firm up and you can braid normally. When the divided braid has grown long enough for my intended loop, I start braiding the main section of the braid, closing the loop.

This method is quicker to set up than the other “fringeless” loop-starts, and makes a very neat start.

[even newer info, 10/17/'12]:
Here’s a diagram drawn by Jean Leader after she learned how I do this. She makes the same link in each doubly-long loop that I do, but she does it a different way: by laying the loops down on a table, giving each one a full twist as shown, and then loading them onto a prong (or header-cord, curtain ring, etc) by slipping the prong through both halves of the loop, under the central twist:

The diagram on the right is a close-up (in the same orientation, the loop has not been turned) of just the central twist shown in the left diagram, showing how the prong is inserted—lengthwise to the overall doubled loop, going through both the new loops. The red strand forms the two upper shanks, and the blue-green strand forms two lower shanks of these loops.

*I have used the prong of a safety pin, but now I usually just use the straight metal bar/ lever at the top of a small C-clamp (I mount the clamp upside-down, so the horizontal bar that you turn to tighten the clamp is at the top). That bar is great for braiding from—especially once there is a loop at the top of your braid. You can slide the loop at the top of the braid over the bar, and remove it just as easily.

[New info: I recently found that a simple metal shower curtain ring makes a great "prong" to suspend the loops onto when I'm ready to start braiding—makes it easier to spread the loops apart to tighten the first few cycles. After those first few cycles I still prefer to put the braid back onto the straight bar at the top of my C-clamp (G-clamp), though, but maybe that's just because I'm so used to it.]

——————————

**In an A-fell braid, the loops on one hand pass through other loops of that same hand as they lead out from the fell (base) of the braid toward your fingers. In a V-fell braid, each loop comes straight from the fell of the braid toward the finger—none of the loops pass through other loops (of the same hand) on their way from the braid to the fingers.

BTW, the same trick works for continuing with A-fell braiding, but you would do the opposite: at the start of the second half of the braid, loops will be coming out of the fell of the braid in V-fell configuration—So on each hand’s loops, one-by-one pull the inner loops through the outer loops, til they are all in A-fell order. (Look at the loops of an A-fell braid first, to compare!)


© 2011–2013 Ingrid Crickmore

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4 thoughts on “Longer loop braids, and starts with no ends

  1. Have you tried winding a butterfly bobbin with the extra length instead of crocheting it up into a chain? When I make them, I wind them around my thumb and forefinger so they stay fairly small.

    • I did that early on and it didn’t work at all–when you try to pull them thru the loops, they get stuck in the loops or pull them off the fingers. Plus, just hanging there they would sometimes hook around / tangle up around each other. A chain pulls through completely smoothly, and the chains never tangle up with each other. You can certainly try it! Maybe if you then tightly wrap each butterfly so it’s really like a tight ‘cocoon’ it would come through the loops easily. But the caterpillars work so well that I have no incentive for trying anything else myself!

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