Two-worker loop braids; multi-person fingerloop braids; team braids, double braids—whatever term you use, these are the braids that are tantalizingly out of reach for most loop braiders, because the traditional methods for making them require two braiders working together on one braid.
[update: see my new post on this, with a photo-tutorial and a video of two people team braiding!]
Back about five years ago I bumped into Sarah Goslee’s method for making 10-loop double braids as a solo braider on her Phiala’s Stringpage site, and was blown away by the very idea that these braids were possible to make on one set of hands.*¹ I made a few, which was very exciting. But the braids seemed very slow to make—I think because the loop-shifting for the two outer loop transfers had to be performed by the other hand, rather than by the fingers shifting (‘walking’) their own loops. So, although the method worked, I didn’t end up using it very often.
The idea preyed on my mind, though, and eventually I figured out a way to make double braids using all ten fingers to do the braiding. At that point the braids became very straightforward to make, with fluid, same-hand loop-shifting moves. And they were just as easy to unbraid as to braid (which I love, since I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’m always going to make mistakes when I braid).
I used to think of it as a technique for 10 loops or more, so I didn’t teach double braids to others until after they had learned how to use thumbs in braiding. It was a long time before it finally dawned on me that the 6 and 8-loop versions of the double braid could be learned before or without ever learning how to use thumbs. So I started experimenting with 6 and 8 loop double braids. I was amazed at how great they turned out – all the same shape variations could be made as with 10-loop double braids, and they looked fantastic! *² They are reduced versions of the classic 10-loop medieval and 17th C. braids, not quite as filled-out, but beautiful braids nonetheless.
[I'll try to add some pics of 6 and 8-loop double braids after I get back from my trip. Most of the photos are of 10-loop braids]
I’ve now taught them to several groups of loop braiders, even some relatively new loop braiders. (It was the main focus of the workshop I taught at Braids 2012.) I’ve held off from teaching it here on the blog because I halfway thought that I might want to, like, publish the method someday – or at least reserve it for my workshops, so the hordes of eager braiders would come flocking to them (!) But the fact is, there really aren’t any ‘hordes’ when it comes to loop braiding, and anyway I want to promote loop braiding, not hide it away. So I’m posting these video tutorials on my double braid solo-braider method for anyone who is interested. I would love to hear from you if you try it!
Happy Holidays, and Happy Braiding in 2013!
[note: All these videos are made in super-slow-mo speed as any can be an intro to double braids, depending on how many loops you can already use (easily) in making square and flat braids. Despite my advice at the beginning of the ten-loop video, if you are already very comfortable making square braids of 9 loops using my 'thumbs' method, you could start with the full ten-loop video.]
Solo-braider tutorials for 6, 8, and 10-loop double braids.
To get your fingers ready for double braids:
Learn 5-loop square braids before learning the 6-loop double braid (this 6-loop braid is a doubled version of the super-easy 3-loop braid). Learn 7-loop square braids before learning 8-loop double braids. Before learning my 10-loop double braid method, learn how to use your thumbs in braiding a 9-loop square braid.
Six-loop double braid tutorial:
1:23 Slow demo of a divided braid (loops transferred without a turn–this will form a loop at the top of the braid.).
11:40 Slow demo of the ‘solid rectangle’ variation (all loops turned while being transferred).
Start watching at 15:54 or 19:15 for slightly faster moves, and less talking.
8-loop double braid tutorial:
3:06 Divided braid—all loops transferred with no turn, forming a loop in the braid. (skip to 8:18 to see this with less talking.)
12:10 Solid rectangle braiding. The transferring loops are all turned (‘reversed,’ ‘crossed’). (I started explaining this @ 11:13)
Skip ahead to 20:56 to see it with less talking.
24:10 The color-order for this braid–how to set the loops up in the color-order you want for your braid.
10-loop double braid tutorial, part 1:
(Start watching at 17:43 to see the braiding moves with less stopping and explaining.)
1:38 Loop set-up (all dark shanks in ‘upper position’). Showing upper vs. lower shanks on the thumbs.
3:18 Explanation of ‘divided’ braid moves in a double braid.
3:36 Explanation of ‘inner’ vs. ‘outer’ loop transfers in double braids.
4:16 Start of the first actual braiding moves for a divided braid. Skip to 17:43 to see this with less talking and pausing.
17:43 Divided braiding moves, less pausing/more braiding.
19:32 Tips on how to manage the thumb loops to keep them from falling off.
22:42 Back to braiding
24:04 Faster braiding moves
26:00 “Solid rectangle” double braid moves–here you will turn all the loops when transferring them. This creates the “solid rectangle” form of the braid.
Note: the second and fourth transfers (to the thumb) are done differently than the way you did them in 6 and 8-loop double braids. Turning or not turning a loop when it will end up on the thumb is different because thumbs hold their loops in a different orientation than the rest of the fingers. It will help if you have already learned how to make 9-loop square braids. (On that tutorial, look at picture #3 to see which of the two shanks of a thumb loop corresponds to the “upper” shank of a finger-loop.)
See below the video for the color set-ups for 10-loop “Crowns” and “Edge” color patterns, and also for the loop order for this 10-loop double braid. The loop order is good to know for planning your own color patterns. (For 6 and 8-loop double braids, that info is given in the videos.)
10-loop double braid tutorial, part 2:
0:00 Examples of finished braids.
2:38 Lifting “parked loops” off a peg-type holder.
5:07 Braiding: Solid rectangle (all loop transfers are turned/ reversed/ crossed).
The color pattern was called Crowns in the 17th C. loop braiding manuscripts.
12:24 Unbraiding back to beginning.
19:51 Starting over (braiding the Crowns pattern starting from beginning again).
25:42 Switching to the color set-up for the pattern called “Edge” (also known by other names).
Sorry, I ran out of time, and the video cut off at the end. See below for the loop set-up for making the 10-loop Edge pattern.
All the video-tutorials begin by showing how to make the braid in its simplest form—divided into two separate layers. The second variation I demo is the solid rectangle form of the braid, which is equivalent to two square braids joined side-by-side. I plan to make another video showing a third variation: the wide, flat form of the double braid. This is the same thickness, but twice as wide as a flat ‘square braid.’
Those 3 forms were all you got with square braids. But, believe it or not, double braids have at least nine more shape variations! (photo below shows the double-tubular shape) That’s why I teach this braid as a two-day workshop—there is so much that you can do with it. Each of the twelve forms has some distinctive color patterns that can’t be made in the other braid shapes, so aside from being very-to-slightly different in shape, the twelve different types of double braids also offer a lot of color pattern possibilities.
Color planning and loop set-up:
[note: these color pattern setups and info are for making double braids by my solo-braider method. For making them as a team of two braiders working together, see my first note at the end of this post]
The sequence below is the order that the loops on your fingers will actually show up in the braid (for the 10-loop double braids I teach). If you want a certain color-order in your braid, follow this sequence in loading the loops onto your fingers. For example, if you wanted to use 10 shades of blue in dark-to-light order, start with the darkest loop on the left middle finger:
B (middle finger)
D (little finger)
B (middle finger)
D (little finger)
Following this sequence, you would set up your loops with your darkest blue loop on the left middle finger, next lightest on the left index finger, etc. The very lightest blue loop would be on the right little finger.
This is a totally different loop order than the one for square braids (see my post on color pattern planning for square braids).
I show the loop sequences for 6 and 8-loop double braids in the videos themselves. They are similar to this—the middle finger loop first, index second, then ring, (little finger), followed by the same order of loops on the other hand.
Loop set-ups for bicolor loops have an extra element to consider. The upper and lower colors of a loop will switch in the braid whenever the loop is turned.
COLOR PATTERN SET-UPS
Below are instructions for some bicolor pattern set-ups for solid rectangle braids of 6, 8, and 10 loops shown in photos.
[Note: I recently posted set-up instructions for several more double braid color patterns of 8 loops here]
For 10-loop braids, remember that the ‘upper’ shank of a thumb-loop is the shank that is closer to the other hand when the thumbs are pointing upward. (see photo #3 in my 9-loop tutorial)
Color set-up for “Crowns” (6, 8, or 10-loop braids):
All loops bicolor, same two colors.
Start with all light (or all dark) colors in upper-shank position.
Color set-up for “Edge” (6, 8, or 10-loop braids):
All loops bicolor, same two colors
(Thumb), A, B—Light shanks up, dark shanks down
C, (D)—Dark shanks up, light shanks down
In the photo further down of the two green/yellow braids, the top braid has alternating Crowns and Edge patterns.
Color set-up for “Edge” multicolor pattern (6, 8, or 10-loop braids—photo below shows a 10-loop braid)
Same as described above EXCEPT that all the bicolor loops have one white shank and one bright-colored shank. These must be in pairs—two loops of each bright color. In my 10-loop sample, the bright-colored shanks are:
2 loops red, 2 purple, 2 orange, 2 blue, 2 green. One loop of each pair of colors will be on the right hand and the other on the left. Set these up on your hands following the directions above for “Edge”.
Set them up so the colors match on the fingers of both hands (same bright color on left and right A fingers, left and right B’s, etc).
If you want these colors to be in a particular order in the braid, refer to the Color planning and loop set-up sequence I give above.
[You might also want to try setting the loops onto the fingers with the opposite bicolor dark/light order that I described in the instructions for "Edge". Both ways work, but with slightly different results in the appearance of the finished pattern.]
Color set-up for “One-loop-wrong” variation of the “Edge” pattern
(middle portion of braid in photo above)
The set-up is exactly as described above for the Edge pattern, EXCEPT: turn one loop (any finger you choose) to be in the opposite dark/light starting position than given in the instructions.
Color set-up for Chevron pattern (10 loops) (2nd braid in the photo below):
6 bicolor loops (yellow + green)
4 single-color loops (all-green)
Thumb, A, B—bicolor loops, green shanks up
C, D—green loops (not bicolor)
The Chevron pattern will look quite different on the two sides of the braid! If your braid doesn’t look like the braid in the photo, turn it over and look at the other side.
The first braid in the photo below has both the Crowns pattern (W-shapes across the braid), and the Edge pattern (dark edges, light center). The set-ups for both patterns are described above. To switch between these patterns, the easiest method is to stop braiding and turn some of your loops over on their fingers to be in the new pattern position. A better-looking way, with a cleaner pattern-transition is to braid your way into the new pattern (see below for my attempt to explain this).
In the second 10-loop video, I got cut off at the end. I was in the middle of showing how to change from the Crowns pattern to the Edge pattern in a smoother way than by just turning the various loops to be in their new positions (turning them works, but the pattern transition doesn’t look as clean).
A cleaner way to make bicolor pattern transitions is done by transferring loops with or without a turn, depending on what their new dark/light order on the fingers should be. Temporarily you just stop following the ‘turn all transfers’ rule for making a solid rectangle braid.
If the loop you are about to transfer (the loop on the middle finger) happens to already have the correct color facing up (for the new pattern set-up), then you transfer it ‘correctly’—with a turn.
If it DOESN’T have the correct color facing up (for the new pattern), you transfer it ‘incorrectly’—that is, without a turn. After doing this for a few cycles the loops will all be in the correct arrangement for the new pattern. At that point, you resume braiding as for a solid rectangle braid (turning all the loops when transferring them).
The Edge pattern has a one-cycle pattern repeat. The loops will all be back in the same color-distribution on the fingers after each braiding cycle, rather than after 5 cycles as for the ‘Crowns’ pattern.
Attn: Braids made with bicolor loops have opposite colors on the two sides of the braid!
My Edge pattern instructions above will result in light edges/ dark center on the side facing the braider, and dark edges/ light center on the side facing the floor. That lower surface is actually slightly wider than the upper surface,*³ so I usually consider the lower side the “good” side of the braid, and plan my colors according to how they will turn out on the lower side of the braid.
For any bicolor braid, it can be interesting to also try setting it up on the fingers so all the bicolor loops have the opposite color facing up than the instructions say—you might like that result better.
The 12 different double braid shapes:
If you want to know more about the 12 different variations of double braids, the article I wrote for Braids 2012′s conference proceedings describes how to make all of them, with color photos of each one. (To follow it, you need to already know how to make square, flat, and divided ‘single’ braids)
The Proceedings book (Threads That Move) can be purchased from the Braid Society. I’ve had a lot of positive feedback on my article! [update: BraidersHand in the U.S. is also now carrying it, click here].
I think it succeeds pretty well in teaching and illustrating these braids in a way that is easy to follow, and not overly wordy—even though it’s 12 large-size pages. I honed it a lot more than my writing on this blog, plus I had amazing editors to work with (thanks, Shirley and Ruth!!!)
Btw, this isn’t a real commercial, more of a fyi. I and the other contributors donated our articles—all sales benefit the Braid Society.
I’m so glad I managed to get this post up before the end of the year! We are heading out of town for a week or so but I will check the blog as soon as we are back, so please let me know if you have any questions or corrections. I won’t have time to go over it all looking for the glaring errors I usually find right after I post.
Happy Braiding and Happy New Year!
For setting up the patterns above as a two-person braiding team, the loop order for lining up your colors in the braid will be completely different. However the specific color-patterns I describe should not be hard to ‘translate’ if you refer to instructions on other sites for setting up Crowns, Edge, and Chevron as two-person, 10-loop braids. On Cindy Meyers’ Silkewerk site: Edge is called “A thick lace bordered“. To me, her instructions for making the braiding moves are much easier to follow than those of fingerloop.org, but she doesn’t give the color setup for the Chevron pattern variation that I describe above. Fingerloop.org does give this color set-up. Fingerloop.org describes it below the 2-person braid called with the wave. After teaching ‘with the wave,’ they explain how to set up for other color patterns of that braid (all have the same braiding moves, it’s just the initial color set-up on the fingers that is different).
The patterns I describe here are these three classic patterns, plus two variants of Edge. In one, the One-Loop-Wrong variant, just follow the other sites’ directions for setting up the loops on two braiders’ hands for “with the Edge/a thick lace bordered,” but turn one bicolor loop (on ONE braider’s hand only!) to be in the opposite dark/light configuration than the directions say.
For the multicolor variation of Edge that I describe above, follow my directions for the bicolor loops (white + a bright color for the shanks of each of the ten loops, and use 5 bright colors. So two matching loops of each color combo. Then mount them on fingers (following the other sites’ directions for placing the white shanks up or down on specific fingers) such that EACH of the two braiders carries all the colors, arranged in mirror-image on their hands:
The left braider’s LEFT index finger and the right braider’s RIGHT index finger should hold the same colors, and so on.
*¹ Phiala’s String Page teaches a solo-braider method in which the braider holds 2 to 3 loops on the index fingers.
Click here for fingerloop.orgs’s instructions for two co-operating braiders (surprisingly, for double braids only, fingerloop.org teaches teach a V-fell method, which wasn’t the method actually used by the writers of the old loop braiding manuscripts—they braided with A-fell moves, like the ones fingerloop.org teaches for square/round braids).
Noemi Speiser’s OEPBforLB teaches two-worker braids in more detail, and alludes to her own method for making them solo, but doesn’t teach it.
The book Tak V Bowes, Departed teaches how to make two-person braids, and does it well, judging from two of the loop braiding participants I met at Braids 2012.
*² I still highly recommend learning how to use thumbs in braiding first—ie right after learning 7-loop square braids. To me, loop braiding is even more rewarding if you can use those two extra digits, instead of letting them go to waste. And then you would be able to go from 8-loop double braids right up to the full, classic 10-loop double braids of the old braiding manuscripts.
You don’t need to have exceptionally limber hands to use thumbs in loop braiding. I was almost 50 (with stiffer fingers than when I was younger) when I first learned how to loop braid. Thumbs are naturally adept. Try resting all your fingertips on a table, then test one finger at a time to see how easily you can lift it, or trace circles with it on the table, without moving the other fingers. The thumb and index finger will probably be about equal.
It isn’t necessary to have a curved thumb like mine. I can’t hold my thumb straight (it starts to tremble) or I would demo myself that the curve in it isn’t necessary. Students of mine with straight thumbs have found that my thumb method works for them, too.
If you’ve only recently learned how to make 7-loop square braids, go ahead and learn 9-loop braids as soon as you’re fairly comfortable with 7 loops. That is, when it’s easy to remember the moves, and loops aren’t falling off the fingers all the time. If you are at all interested, add thumbs before the braiding moves have become completely automatic and lightning-fast! (in other words, you still need to pause your braiding in order to carry on a conversation, or when you look up during the loop-shifting).
When long-time loop braiders who are lightning-fast and proficient first try learning to use thumbs, the simple fact that they have to slow down can be a shock. The contrast between the ease of braiding they are used to, and their clumsiness in the not-yet-acquired skill can make them feel that the new skill must be impossibly hard. (It’s not!) Relatively newer loop braiders don’t yet have that perception—they are still braiding slowly and methodically, plus they still clearly remember progressing quickly from clumsiness to competence with 5 and then 7 loops.
*³ The lower side ends up being the widest because of the direction I turn loops—as if the two braiders of a team braid were turning their loops from above. If loops were turned in the opposite rotational direction than I teach (“from below” for both braiders), the widest surface would be the upper surface—the side facing up while you are braiding.
The reason I prefer to make my turns “from above” is that I find that the loop transfer that goes to the thumb is much more efficient to make as a turn from above than as a turn from below. (The solo-braider way I make this ‘turn from above’ doesn’t actually look like a turn from above! That’s because the loop is being taken from a totally different angle than a team braider would be taking it.)
Interestingly (to me, anyway!), the solid rectangle double braid can in fact be made in such a way that the upper and lower surfaces are equal in width.
In the videos, I teach the traditional way that the loops would be turned if the double braid were being made by two co-operating braiders: both braiders would typically turn all their loops from above, or both would turn all their loops from below. Either way results in one surface being wider than the other.
If, instead, each of the two braiders turned the loops on one hand from below the loop, and the loops on the other hand from above the loop—the two braiders ‘mirroring’ each others’ moves—the resulting braid would be evenly rectangular in overall shape, with upper and lower surfaces of the same width.
This is almost certainly not the way the ‘solid rectangle’ braid has ever been made traditionally. I checked with Joy Boutrup about this, and she said that the extant two-worker braids (of this solid rectangle type) that she has seen in museums all have one wider and one narrower ‘wide’ surface, so were all done the traditional “one type of turn” way.
I refer to that traditional way as having “countered turns” and my alternative way as having “balanced turns”. It feels very unintuitive to use balanced turns when team braiding, though once you get used to it, it isn’t difficult to do. But it feels fine to do it as a solo braider –or maybe both ways feel equally unintuitive!
With my solo-braider method, this non-traditional “balanced turns” method is done by turning both transfers of one hand in the same rotational direction, say counterclockwise. And both transfers of the loops on the OTHER hand in the opposite rotational direction, so clockwise.
This is what I almost always do now for the solid rectangle form of the double braid (though sometimes I prefer the traditional way I show in the videos, where one side of the braid ends up wider and more emphasized).
For the non-traditional ‘balanced turns’ method, I turn the thumb transfers (the outer transfers) exactly as I demo in the videos, but I turn the INNER transfers (first and third transfers) from below—that is, in the opposite rotational direction from the way I demo it in the videos.
Note: Even with this “balanced turns” method, the two wide surfaces are still slightly different in appearance! Although the overall width of both surfaces is equal, the widths of specific columns/ ridges of each surface are not the same on one side as the other, so the appearance of the braided pattern will still be slightly different on the two sides of the braid. Just as with the traditional method, it is still worth trying any bicolor pattern with darks and lights reversed (switching the surface of the braid on which they appear)–you may like one way better than the other.
© 2012-2014 Ingrid Crickmore
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