Longer loop braids, and starts with no ends

Pics of my “shower-curtain ring” holder for braiding a loop at the top of a braid are near the bottom of this page, in the Tips section.

Part I (directly below) is on ways to braid longer loop braids.

Part II (jump here to Starts with No Ends) covers several ways to start a braid with a loop/ eyelet, and with no visible ends of thread at the top of the braid. [plus a way to start and end with a tassel of matching ‘minibraids’]

3 fingerloop braids by loopbraider

Center braid is 22 feet long, but I call it my “whole-nine-yards” braid, since that’s how long the loops started out.

Part I – Longer loop braids:

Traditional 2-worker method:
The tried and true traditional way — worldwide — to braid longer loop braids is to cooperate with another braider. This is not hard to do. One of you braids, and the other stands near where the start is fastened, and does the actual tightening. This can be done by beating the fell with an implement, or by using one’s hands as in the video below—experiment to see what works best for you.

This video is about the Wayuu people of Columbia and their textile crafts. After clicking the video to start playing, then move the timeline “bubble” below the video to 2:25 to see two Wayuu women cooperating in loop braiding an extra-long braid.

Video above @ 2min, 25sec shows 2 braiders co-operating to braid an extra-long braid.

Solo braider strategies for braiding longer loop-braids

The center braid in the first photo (above the video) is 22 feet long — a 7-loop square braid that I made back in 2007, just as a test to see if it was possible. I used the same two techniques I’d always used for making longer loop braids, but this time I used 9 yards, the total length of the floss in my skeins. (I made each loop from two skeins of floss tied together.) I call that braid my “Whole 9 Yards” braid, although the finished braid actually ended up about 7 yards and one foot (22′, or 6.7m), due to take-up.

I use two main work-arounds when I want a longer braid: First and easiest, starting braiding from the midpoint/ center of the loop-bundle. This can double the length of your normal maximum-length braid. Secondly — only if necessary — shortening the ends of the loops temporarily into what I call “caterpillars”, preferably on only one (the longer) half of the start from the center, or for a very long braid, on both halves. This can add a lot of length to your braid, but the start-from-the-center gives you the most extra length for almost no extra effort, so I always start with that.

step 1. The center-start
This is the first strategy because it is the quickest and easiest—always start with this one and only add step 2 (‘caterpillars’) if this alone will not be enough. Below I describe 3 different ways to start from the center: Handshake, Exact, and the one I use most: Basic (described below).

Basic Center-Start This is the method I use most often, it seems quickest and easiest to me. The center point might not end up at the exact center-point of the braid. In fact, I sometimes purposely place the ‘center-point’ way off-center, if I’m planning to use my “caterpillar” loop-shortening technique on only one end of the braid.

Short version: Begin braiding at the center-point of an extra-long loop bundle of loops that are free at both ends of the bundle (the bundle is not tied together at either end, only in the middle). Braid to one end, then UNTIE the knot in the middle, and start from the center again to braid the other half. Make sure there is no knot or string cinched around the center-start when you begin braiding the second half, or the braid will have a loose, gappy area there.

3 fingerloop braids by loopbraider

Center braid is a 7-loop square braid made of 9-yard (27′) long loops of embroidery floss, using the basic center-start method, along with the
‘caterpillar’ method.

Click for more details, including how to make a seamless version of this Basic Center-start that involves mounting the ends of the loops onto two combs.

Warped and ready to tie a center-start knot. NOTE: knotting up ‘caterpillars’ at both ends was a mistake! I should have waited to knot up the second set of caterpillars til I was ready to braid the second half of the braid (explained in details about caterpillar method below). Braid is an 18-loop flat double braid

TheHandshake Center-start” I don’t use this method very often, but it’s a great way to start if you want half the length of the braid to be in different colors than the other half—though they don’t have to be in different colors. This start leaves a distinctive but not bad-looking ‘join’ at the center point. It’s also a guaranteed way to locate your join at the exact center of the finished braid (unless you happen to braid one half tighter or looser than the other half.)

Below is a photo of this start used as a loop for the top of a braid, rather than the center of a whole braid. Click on the photo below to enlarge it and see the “handshake” join area at the top of the loop more clearly. Looking only at the loop, and not the rest of the braid below the loop, imagine the loop section spread out as a long braid with that handshake join at its center.

fingerloop braiding, 16 loops, 'handshake' looped start

‘Handshake’ loop at the start of a braid, 16-loop Sudarium braid. 8 pink / purple loops were linked around 8 silver / gold loops at the start of the braid. Click twice to see the ‘handshake’ join of the two color-groups at the start of the braid. This can also be done as the center-start to a long braid.

Click for a photo-tutorial showing how to set up a handshake center-start.

[new! another way to locate and start from the exact center of the loop bundle]

Exact center-start
This method will place your center-start at the exact center-point of your loop-bundle. The join area here will be almost invisible, not obvious like the “handshake join” above. (The most seamless-looking join is the Seamless/ Two Combs variation of the Basic Center-start above.)

Details here.

step 2. Shorten the loops (Caterpillars). I use this trick whenever I want more length than I can get from the “center-start” method alone. However I still do a start from the center, since the center-start doubles the braid’s length for almost no extra effort, whereas caterpillars require quite a bit of extra effort in setting up, especially if the desired length would require two or more repetitions of shortening the loops.

Short version: I shorten each loop to a manageable length by tying/ crocheting a chain of slip-knots (ie a crochet chain) with the “extra” length. A caterpillar-like chain dangles below each loop as I braid, and pulls easily through the other loops. This adds time to preparing the loops for braiding, but doesn’t add time to the actual braiding procedure.

When I have braided all the way down to the caterpillars, I park the loops on a comb, undo the caterpillars, and (if the remaining loop-length is now workable) finish braiding to the original ends of the loops. If the loops are still too long to braid with comfortably, I knot up a second set of caterpillars and repeat this process.

finger loop braiding, extra long lengths, 22-foot braid

Braiding with ends of loops chained into ‘caterpillars.’

Details here

Part II – Loop starts, with or without ends

I almost always start braids with a loop (buttonhole-type opening), as in the tall braid photo in my right sidebar → ↑. 

In my introductory tutorials I teach a simple way to set up a loop bundle and start braiding: You make an overhand knot at the top of the loop bundle, which leaves a short tassel of ends on one side of the knot, and the working loops of whatever length on the other. To form a buttonhole/ loop at the top of the braid, you start braiding with “divided” braiding moves (no turning the loops) for the first half-inch or so. This creates a loop-type opening at the top of the braid, just below the upper knot and tassel of ends.

7-loop D-shaped braid sampler with matching ends

7-loop D-shaped braid with mini-braid fringe at both ends. (there’s also a ‘divided braid’ loop at each end, but they aren’t visible in this photo)

Tassel of mini-braids at both ends of the braid:
This is a nice way to finish both ends of the braid in the same way: Tie the overhand knot at the top much lower down, leaving a very long tassel or “tail” of ends above the knot (several inches long). Braid. Finish the last several inches as an ending tassel of ‘mini-braids’—the third video in my Bracelet with Chevrons post demos this. Then finish the top of the braid to match: Untie the overhand knot at the top of the braid, tie those loose ends into loops (if they are not already joined as loops), and then braid them to match the mini-braids you’ve already braided at the other end of your braid. The photo at left shows a 7-loop braid. At each end of the braid I finished off by braiding a divided 4-loop braid and a divided 3-loop braid — this makes four mini-braids at each end. At the bottom of each pair of divided braids, I cut the loops to separate each pair into 2 separate mini-braids. Then I used one strand from each mini-braid to tie off the bottom, before trimming all the ends to the same length. This whole process is essentially the same as starting from the center for an extra-long braid – in that case, too, you will have a tassel of some kind at both ends of the braid (or end caps covering the ends).

No ends at the top:
I often make a braided loop at the top of my braid without leaving any ends or fringe at the start of the braid. (You can’t avoid ends at the bottom other than by hiding them inside an end-cap or other type of covering.)

There are more ways than one to do this, and I don’t always do it the same way. Below I’ve described some of them.

Using “divided braiding” (as taught in my Start Here 5-loop videos, and others) is the fastest way to braid the loop area, because both sides of the loop are braided at the same time. Below I show 3 different “no-ends” methods to start a braid with a divided braid section for the loop at the top. #1 is the easiest to learn, #3 is the method I use the most.

After those, I show some non-divided-braid ways to form a starting loop without any ends. These non-divided loop-starts take a little longer to braid than doing divided braiding, but they are very attractive, and may be easier to learn(?). Most are based on the various center-start methods I described above in the section on Longer Loop Braids. (click link to go to non-divided starts)

Divided-braid no-ends loop-start #1:
This start can only be used for single-color loops. If using any bicolor loops, try the next variation: Divided-braid loop-start #2, or use the completely different Divided-braid loop-start #3.

This may be the easiest no-ends start method. The video and pdf tutorial show it with 3 loops, but it can be used with any number of loops. (I made them for my Easy 3-loop Braids tutorial). You can download my pdf 3-loop photo-tutorial, which includes this start. In the video, I use a header cord to hold the loops, while in the photo-tute I use the handle of my C-clamp. (You can also substitute a shower-curtain ring, as shown in the Tips section further down – it combines the benefits of both methods). Any way you mount the loops, it’s basically the same start. Click link for more tips and details, as well as the video.

Divided Braid loop start #2, using Double-length loops:
This variation of the above method is good for bicolor loops.
When you set up your loops, cut out doubly-long bicolor loops, and only make half as many loops as your braid requires. All the left-hand double-long loops will be bent in half – in a U-shape – so that each loop forms two loops. The right hand loops are then also bent in half, and linked around the whole bunch of the left-hand loops. Each of the two bunches of loops will be in a U-shape, linked onto the other U-shaped bunch of loops. You can easily add a single loop to the rest of these doubled loops (if your braid has an odd number of loops), just make sure the U-shaped bunch of loops of the other hand goes through the single loop as well as around the doubled loops. If that single loop is bicolor, see Tip #2 further down page for a way to form a bicolor loop with no ends or knot at the top of the loop.

Click for more detailsit’s important to mount the doubled-over section of each loop onto the bar or ring one by one, with each upper and each lower shank separated by the bar or header cord.

Divided braid loop start #3:
This is the way I usually make a divided-braid loop start. This method is quicker to set up than my other methods, but it is much harder to describe!

This loop-start has a flatter join than the previous divided start methods. It is an ideal ‘no-ends’ method for an even number of bicolor loops of the same two colors. But it can also work for an odd number of loops. Loops start out double-length, as in Divided Loop Start #2 above. But here, each double-length loop is twisted at its mid-point to form its own link, resulting in two linked loops.

The first few cycles of braiding will feel very awkward because the loops slip a lot and change length on your fingers. But after a few braiding cycles, the loops lock into place and don’t slip anymore.

finger loop braiding, 17th C. letterbraid, solo braider

this loop start is just a “divided” braid, can be made on any braid that can be made “divided” (see 5 and 9-loop braid tutorials)

This start can be done with simple 3-loop braids up to very complex ones like this letterbraid.

The first step is to make up your loops: doubly long loops as described above, but twisted and mounted as described below.

[Update – this method will actually work even if only one loop is double-length, the others can all be separate, single-length loops. They will eventually ‘lock’ into the one double-length loop after you start braiding, though it will take a few braiding moves. At least one double-length, linked loop is necessary, or all the single loops would continually pull through each other as you braid, and the top of the braid wouldn’t hold together after being taken off its header.]

To form two loops from a double-length single loop, make a link in the middle of the double-length loop. Hold both ends of the loop, twist it once so it forms a figure-8, and then twist it once more so it has now received a full twist—a 360° rotation. After the second twist, the loop will still look like a figure-8, but at the center the two long strands are now linked to each other, rather than simply crossing each other. Each strand bends around the other strand.

Diagram by Jean Leader, showing a double-length bicolor loop twisted at the center to form two linked loops.

Diagram by Jean Leader, showing a double-length bicolor loop twisted at the center to form two linked, bicolor loops.

Click for more details
[this link is now fixed, sorry for any previous inconvenience!]

Three loop starts without ‘divided’ braiding
These are all related to the various methods for starting a braid at the center of the loop bundle — described above in the section on Longer Loop Braids.

1. the Handshake Loop-Start:
I used the Handshake loop start for most of my Sudarium braids, because it emphasizes the two different “halves” of those braids:

fingerloop braiding, 16 loops, 'handshake' looped start

‘Handshake’ loop-start, 16-loop Sudarium braid. 8 pink / purple loops were linked around 8 silver / gold loops at the start of the braid. Click twice to see the ‘handshake’ join of the two color-groups at the start of the braid.

Below is a Spiral Braid with the same Handshake loop-start (still with a red header cord attached):

finger loop braiding, spiral braid, looped start

Click for details

2. Handshake variation for Bicolor loops:
A handshake start using bicolor loops has to be done differently. When making the bicolor loops, make HALF as many loops as you need, but make each loop twice as long as your desired loop-length. (In the braid, each loop will be bent in half to form two bicolor loops.) Then double the left loops over—bend them in half—and suspend them through/ around the bent-in-half right loops, so that each set is linked around the other. Each doubly-long loop will end up forming two bicolor loops, held by different fingers of the same hand. (You can do this with single-color loops, too.)

This works with an even number of loops. If you have an odd number of loops, the single “odd” loop is suspended differently. If your one “odd” loop is a single-color loop: Thread a single strand (not yet forming a loop) around the opposite set of bent-in-half loops, and only then tie it into a loop, (single length) with its single knot at the bottom, where you will insert your finger.

An odd bicolor loop will (likely) have two knots, one at the top of the loop and one at the bottom, so you’ll have to live with two ends sticking out of the handshake join at the top of the braid.
(Cut those two ends extra long, and you can hide them later by using a needle to bury them within the braid).
Or, see my tip #2 below for making a bicolor loop that only has a knot at one end of the loop! (requires using divisible thread or yarn)

The Handshake looped start is really just a variation of the more basic Center-start looped start below. In some ways the Handshake version is easier because it automatically and accurately locates the center-point that you start out braiding from.

3. theBasic Center-start Looped Start”:
This makes a very nice-looking loop-start.

14-loops doubled spanish braid. Starting loop is a 7-loop Spanish braid, braided at the center portion of a long loop bundle, then bent and all 14 loop ends joined to form the larger braid below the starting loop.

I’ve heard that this method is commonly used to start a kumihimo braid with a loop. I rarely use it myself, though. It’s easy to do in principal, but in practice your centrally braided loop area usually doesn’t end up being in the exact center. In which case, after you join up the two halves into one braid, the right and left loops will be two different lengths, and you’ll have to shorten the longer ones to match the others. (This isn’t difficult, just time-consuming.)

Start with half as many loops as your braid needs, but make them twice as long as you would normally make them. So, 3 doubly long loops for a 6 or 7-loop braid.

Find the center of this long bundle and braid only the center one or two inches of the bundle–this will be a narrow 3-loop braid at the mid-point of your loops. Then bend that short braided section in half, tie a header cord around its mid-point and fasten that to a fixed point, join all 6 loop ends together (you can add a 7th single loop into the join area at this point if you will be braiding a 7-loop braid – see my tip below for adding an extra loop into the braid after the start) and braid with all the loops. Your 3-loop braided section will form a loop at the top of the braid. At this point, you may have to retie the ends of your loops on one side of the braid to make them the same length as the loops on the other half.

[Update: my new exact center-start method in the first half of this post is a great way to locate the exact center of a loop bundle. You will need to make one of your double-length loops a bit differently than the others. As with the Handshake start method, you would braid a short distance both ways from that center-point before joining the braid to form a loop.]

Tip 1 – Using a shower-curtain ring instead of a header-cord when braiding a divided-start, upper loop at the top of the braid:
I often just use the horizontal bar of my C-clamp for this, but it’s a little tricky to spread the loops widely apart for tightening the first few times – some can easily get pulled completely off the end of the bar. So this type of ring below is a great solution – it’s firm and solid like the bar, but loops can’t fall off it, no matter how widely you spread them.

If my braid has a lot of loops, as in these pics, I also use a comb and rubber band. With braids of fewer loops, I just use my fingers: each time I load a loop onto the ring, I place the other end of the loop onto a finger of my left hand, rather than onto a comb. The upper and lower shanks of each loop must ‘surround’ the bar of the curtain-ring, and go cleanly to the finger with no twist in the loop. Start braiding with only divided braiding moves, and the braided loop at the top will form around the curtain ring. This start will only work if at least some of your loops are connected at the top! (see my various divided loop-start methods above.) If all the loops are single, unconnected loops, the braid would end up falling apart at the top, as loop pulls out of loop pulls out of loop, etc.

Mounting loops onto a ring for finger loop braiding

Open shower-curtain ring. Divided braid loop start #3: Twisted double-length loops have been loaded onto the ring, left-to-right, with ends ‘parked’ securely on a comb. Before braiding, I close the ring, so the loops can’t slip off during the first tightening moves.

I never let go of the end of a loop while setting it up on the shower-curtain ring or C-clamp. I keep the ends in their correct order and securely held on the fingers, or, if there are a lot of loops, I place them in order onto a comb for safekeeping. (See my You can put your loops down post.) If you let the loops hang free, they would lose their correct “up-down” orientation from the twist at the top of the braid, and also it would be very hard to place the loops onto your fingers in the correct order and without passing them over or under any of the other loops.

loops mounted onto a comb for safekeeping, prep for finger loop braiding.

I always set loops down onto the teeth in the same way, palms facing UP, so my fingers match the orientation of the teeth of the comb, and I pick the loops back up by inserting a finger into the loop from below to keep the same orientation.

When I’m ready to braid, I snap the ring shut, and then load the loops from the comb onto my fingers, taking care that each upper shank passes over the top of its finger, and goes cleanly to the upper side of the ring (or bar of the C-clamp) without twisting, and without any lower shanks crossing above any upper shanks.

Tip 2 – To make a no-ends-at-the-top bicolor loop: If you are using a divisible yarn like embroidery floss, you actually can make a single bicolor loop with no knot or loose ends at the top (only at the bottom): Divide the yarn in half – so 3 strands of floss instead of the full 6 strands – and make a bicolor “departed” loop — see pic labelled “method 1” on fingerloop.org. This ends up doubling the thickness of the strands, but since the strands you are using are “half-thick”, this will double them back to normal size, while leaving no loose ends at the top of the resulting bicolor loop.

Tip 3 – Adding an extra loop (or loops) to the braid below the braided loop at the top:

You can do this with any type of start, in several different ways.

In the case of the basic center-start loop-start above, you would otherwise be restricted to only making braids with an even number of loops. This is a very handy workaround for adding a single ‘odd’ loop into any center-start braid after braiding the loop at the top, right at the point when you are joining the the two halves of the loop together into one braid. Make that one extra loop a bit shorter than the others, since it will be added below the start of the braid.

When the braided loop section is long enough, and you are about to bring both its ends together to start braiding the main body of the braid, at that point you will add the extra loop into the braid. Make sure the knotted end of the new loop is at the bottom of the loop, where a finger will be inserted.

To hold the new loop in place, hang it from its own header thread – put a temporary header thread through it, and suspend that header thread from the same attachment point holding the main braid. I get all this ready in the beginning when I am getting all the loops ready for braiding. The header thread should suspend the new loop just low enough that the top of the new loop is level with the point where you intend it to join the braid. When you are ready to add the extra loop into the braid, place the new loop onto a finger where the first braiding move will pull a loop through it, and not where it will be the first loop pulled. (It doesn’t matter where the loop is suspended – it’s fine to hang it from the outer edge of all the other loops, even if you are adding it into the center of the braid. It’s the finger you place it on that determines where it will enter the braid, not the place you hang it.)

Remove the temporary header thread as soon as a few loops have been braided through the new loop, so you can tighten the new loop into the braid and prevent any loose bits from sticking out at the top where you introduced it into the braid. If the extra loop is a bicolor loop that does have 2 ends protruding from the top, you won’t need to bother making a header cord for it. – just make the loop the same length as all the others (except leave extra-long ‘tails’ beyond its knot at the top, so you can untie the knot later and ‘sew’ those ends into the braid to hide them), and hang the extra loop from whatever the top of the braid is attached to. Or see my previous tip above for making a bicolor loop that only has one knot – leaving no ends at the top.

Why I don’t have videos for all this:

In my regular braiding videos, I put my camera on a short tripod on my kitchen table, between me and the work. If I’m lucky, the sun is at the right angle through my kitchen window to show or at least silhouette my hands. I sit on one side of the camera+tripod, with my arms wrapped around it and peer through the lens while I braid at an uncomfortable distance on the other side of the camera. This barely works for rote braiding moves, but not for fussy non-rote procedures. These topics would take a whole series of videos with well-planned scripts, a camera person who can take long and close shots, an editor, a decent studio with good lighting, etc. It’s just not going to happen in my spare time and crowded kitchen!

But I do get a lot of questions about no-end starts and how to make longer braids, so I’ve gradually written out all my tips here, adding to and amending them over the last several years. I totally understand if it’s TMI! None of it is necessary, you can make great braids without any of this, or come up with your own methods that work better for you than these ones that I’ve evolved. If you are interested, plow through and glean whatever is helpful. Please ask me about anything that isn’t clear.

How do you like to make longer braids or other types of starts and ends? I would love to hear from you!

*Take-up refers to the length lost while braiding. Loops don’t travel in a straight path down the braid, they travel diagonally back and forth across the width of the braid, so the finished braid will be noticeably shorter than the loops you started with. Take-up varies, you lose more length with wider braids (more loops, and/or thicker thread). Probably tightness or looseness of tension would also affect take-up. Don’t forget to add in a few extra inches for the knot and tassel at the top, and even more for the end, as you won’t be able to braid all the way to the ends of the loops.

You really need to do a test swatch with your chosen material and braiding method to find out how much extra length to allow for a braid. I give the examples below just to show what the range might be:

My 7-loop “Whole Nine-Yards” square braid made with embroidery floss started out as a 9-yard-long loop-bundle, and finished as a 7 yard, 1 foot braid.

A 5.5 foot long, 18-loop flat double braid made with sport-weight cotton yarn (about twice the thickness of embroidery floss) started out as a loop bundle that was 10 feet long plus a few inches extra, though I did cut off some extra inches of unused loop-length after finishing the braid (maybe 5 or 6 inches?).

Wet-finishing or washing a braid will often result in a slight additional loss of length, depending on the material used, so that should also be taken into account.

*For A-fell square and flat braids:
The same loop-rearranging trick works for an A-fell center-start braid: At the start of the second half of the braid, loops will be coming out of the center-start in V-fell configuration. So on each hand’s loops, one-by-one pull the inner loops through the outer loops, til they are all in proper A-fell order.

In an A-fell braid, the loops on any one hand all cross each other as they head down from the braid to your fingers. Each loop passes through and/or around other loops of that same hand. In contrast, the loops of a V-fell braid do not pass through or around any loops (of the same hand) on their way from the braid to the fingers.

Pause your braiding sometimes, and take a look at the loops coming out of the fell – the bottom of the braid – to get used to how they should look. This can be a big help later when trying to replace a dropped loop correctly, as well as for doing this (optional) center-start rearranging… In an A-fell braid, the loop that heads out from the middle of the braid will end up on an index finger – an outer finger – after passing through all the loops of one hand. The loop that starts from an outer edge of the braid will end up on your ring or little finger as one of the two innermost loops, passing around all the the other loops of one hand. The other loops will also pass through and/ or under loops in their path from the braid to your fingers, all in a very clear sequence.

For DOUBLE braids and others:
The rearranging tips above are for square (or flat) braids. Other braids don’t necessarily have an A or V-fell.
Double braids for example: Their loops can also be rearranged back into the correct starting arrangement after the turnaround point of a center-start braid, but it will look different than the simple A or V -fell loop arrangements for square braids. After you get familiar with how loops should look at the fell, you’ll be able to figure out how to undo or redo the loops back to that same arrangement after the center-start turnaround point.

* Wayuu braiding traditions include loop braiding, ply-split, and sprang. They also weave, and now crochet (probably a modern addition to their textile crafts)
Update: Rodrick Owen has just informed me that the technique shown at 30secs into the video is weft twining, which has been documented in the Americas (Andean/ Paracas cultures) from thousands of years BCE…(Not sure if it is known from anywhere in the Americas NOW other than the Wayuu people of Columbia?)

Last updated May/15/2018

© 2011–2018 Ingrid Crickmore
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15 thoughts on “Longer loop braids, and starts with no ends

  1. Hi, I have been living on your site for the last few weeks. Just stumbled onto finger loop braiding while researching patterns for kumihimo and am in love! But I’m wondering if there’s a way to use the little plastic buckle clips for bracelet closures? I can start the bracelet but can’t figure out how to end it. Do you have any tips? Or do you know if it’s possible to make a flat braid around a central line like in paracord braiding? Thanks for any help!!!

    • “Paracord braiding” – you must be a mind reader! Yes, it really is possible to use loop braiding to braid a tubular “skin” around a pre-made core – either another braid or a string or any flexible material. I used to think this wasn’t possible with loop braiding, but turns out I was wrong. It’s not hard to do but it’s a little hard to explain. I learned it maybe a couple of years ago, but so far I still haven’t taught it or posted about it here. The reason you’re a mind-reader is that after months of not thinking much about braids, just yesterday I was was thinking about this exact thing, and idly writing up a possible workshop description for it, thinking titles like “Make a braid around that” or “Braid your own Paracord”!

      Re tips for ending braids, I don’t yet have a whole post on this, but I can refer you to this reply of mine to a similar question, with ideas and links to other sites:

      (If that link doesn’t bring you directly to Lan N’s question and my reply, just scroll down to it in the comment field below the post.)

      I am so jazzed to hear you are enjoying this site! Especially since I haven’t been posting at all lately. I’m still around, but have been busy with work and other things. I do have two or three half-written-up posts on “standby”, so those will be up before too long.


  2. When I need to shorten long lengths, I do start chaining at the ends. I tie a slipknot at a good starting length in all the loops together and secure it with a paperclip or a stitchmarker or something. Then I can safely chain from the end towards the slipknot and all the loops will end up the same length. I secure each crochet chain by pulling a lark’s head knot through the last link with a short piece of scrap yarn.
    When I need to undo it, I can just pull out the lark’s head knot and undo part of the crochet chain without having to redo all of it. If the caterpillars are a bit long, I’ll slipstitch into the first chain stitch to turn them into loops instead of tails 🙂

    • Hi Katia – Thanks for this great idea! Sorry to take so long to reply 😦 I’ve been on vacation from this blog lately and I must have missed the email notification I usually get when someone leaves a comment.

      I can’t wait to try your idea! Unfortunately I do have to wait as I have a looming deadline and won’t have time to braid until June. I remember having a lot of difficulty getting the loops to end up the same length if i started chaining at the ends of the loops. I’m having trouble visualizing how a slipknot at the top would help since each slipknot would take up a lot of length in itself, so would again be hard to have them all match on all the different loops? Unless tightening the slipknot onto a stitchmarker would solve that! I usually braid with a lot of loops, often more than I have fingers, and it just doesn’t work at all to hold two or three loops on the same finger if those loops are even slightly different in length…

      Thanks so much for sharing this idea – it sounds very exciting. It would definitely be a lot more convenient to undo the “caterpillars” top-down to only as far as you need to, than the way I do it where you have to undo them to the very end and then rechain the length you still need chained-up…

      • I’m sorry, I didn’t see your reply sooner as well. 😦

        I would tie a slipknot in all the loops bunched together, then chain up to the slipknot and adjust as needed.
        I’ve since changed my tactic a bit to skip this step:
        – start chaining a caterpillar from the end until you are left with about the right loop length to braid with
        – secure the last chain stitch with a paperclip or a safety pin
        – repeat for all loops
        – hang the loops on your header cord and compare the lengths. Take a few minutes to add or remove a few chains on some of the caterpillars until the loops match.
        – once the lengths match, either replace each paperclip with a contrasting piece or scrap yarn, or wrap a small elastic around your caterpillar bundle and the clip so it doesn’t get snagged while you’re braiding.

        Tiny safety pins work best for me, they don’t snag as easily so you can leave them in and don’t need to bother with scrap yarn. And you can even use the safety pin to shorten really long caterpillars: before closing the pin, poke the end of the caterpillar on it as well.

        Every time you need to undo a bit of the caterpillars, you just have to take a few minutes again to compare the loops until they all match up and you can continue braiding 🙂

        I’m so glad you like the idea, your website is amazing, thank you so much!
        Loop braiding confused me until I found your video tutorials 🙂

        • I know what you mean about “I’ve since changed my tactic” – I’m always doing that, and then I have to decide whether to go back in a tutorial and say Oops, I do it differently now, or just leave it as it was!
          Ok, it was always that last bit about “comparing the lengths, and adding or removing a few chains until the loops match” that I could never get to come out right years ago when I tried doing it this way. One crochet stitch seems to take up a LOT of loop length.
          Now that I know it’s worked for you, I’ll give it a shot the next time I need a long braid.
          Thanks for the tip, and for writing!

          • I wonder if it’s because I tend to crochet quite tightly because I make a lot of plushies and I don’t like the stuffing showing at all. So when I pull on the braiding loops, not much of the caterpillar thread slips back out. If you crochet too loosely, the last few stitches slowly tighten as you start loop braiding and a lot of thread can slip out. Maybe if you make sure the last few chain stitches of your caterpillar are pulled very snug before you start braiding?
            I hope it works for you!

  3. Thank you for the video on Colombian techniques detailing how two people can work together in longer fingerloop projects. At ~3min 20-30 what kind of ply-split work is this woman doing? Do you know anything more about it? It resembles at first glance a kind of Peruvian twining that Roderick Owen teaches but here she is using the tool used in ply-split work. I had no idea ply-split technique that could create such colorful patterned bands.

    • Hi Lausanne! Isn’t that a fun video?! I’ve only done a teeny bit of ply-split braiding myself, but have friends who do it and I’ve seen lots of colorful examples. My guess is that the woman in the video is doing single-course oblique twining (a.k.a. SCOT) using ply-split braiding. Long-ago Andean and Japanese braiders also made this same type of braided twining using hand-held loop braiding (though in the Andes loops were often turned in “countered” directions rather than turning all the loops of the single course in the same direction). There are other types of braided twining as well… In the Andes they also made non-twined braided structures with loops, and did a lot of mixing it up with different structures within the same braid.
      Whereas I think ply-split braiding is all and only twining.

      But in any case, yes, it’s definitely possible to create the same braided structure using very different braiding methods and tools! The resulting “look” of identical structures can seem different because of tensioning differences. Ply-split can be done a lot tighter than the typical loop-braiding, because a lot of tension can be put into the initial plying of the “rope” that the braider then splits.

      It’s nice to hear from you! I just took a workshop fr Laverne btw (boy, was I rusty!)

      [edited to be clearer — I hope!]

    • Hi Justin,
      Sorry, but no [see my new disclaimer above]. My usual start is too fussy, I can’t do it with a camera in between me and the threads. But check out my 3-loop tutorial video above—it demos a divided-braid loop-start that’s very similar to my usual one, and can be used for any number of loops.

      Another loop start that I call the “Handshake” loop start is demo’d in a video in my Bracelet with chevrons tutorial — the second video in that tutorial.

      [edited to add new info]

  4. Have you tried winding a butterfly bobbin with the extra length instead of crocheting it up into a chain? When I make them, I wind them around my thumb and forefinger so they stay fairly small.

    • I tried that early on and it didn’t work for me–when you try to braid, the butterfly bundles get stuck in the loops or even pull the loops off the fingers. Plus, just hanging there they would sometimes hook around / tangle up around each other. A chain pulls through the loops completely smoothly, and they never tangle up with each other. You can certainly try it! Maybe if you then tightly wrap each butterfly so it’s really like a tight ‘cocoon’ it would come through the loops easily. But the caterpillars work so well that I have no incentive for trying anything else myself.

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